Cat Care Information and Advice

Triple Grand Champion Coonquest Cimarron of Coonyham with her last litter of kittens.  Cimarron is now retired and living in the Sierra foothills with a great family and keeping Coonyham Dottie and Moosette company.  Her son, QGC RW Coonyham Joaquin of Ahwannacoons is on the left next to his handsome sisters and brother.

        DIET

Dry food - We feed and recommend:  Eukanuba kitten food, Eukanuba Hairball, Eukanuba Dental, Iams kitten food,  Iams cat food (lamb & rice).  Wysong Vitality is also an excellent food.  Keep dry food in airtight containers.  Experiement with the portions.  You should offer just slightly more than the kitten will eat in a day or half day.  It is best to free feed kittens but you can feed your adults twice a day should you choose to do this.  Dry food will get stale if left out too long.

Canned food:    Iams kitten, Iams Lamb & Rice.  Serve canned food at room temperature.  If you are heating refrigerated food, microwave for 30 seconds, stir and serve the food a few minutes later to prevent it from being too warm in spots.  Do not leave canned food out for more than 20 minutes.  Serve a half day's portion at a time.  Start by serving a tablespoon or two and increasing the amount as needed or as desired.  Canned food has more protein and fewer carbohydrates than dry food.  Please try to feed canned food as much as possible, even up to 100% of their diet.  

Water:  Offer fresh water every day.

Vitamins/Additives:  Pawier makes a great vitamin supplement you add to their water and Oxyfresh makes a great mouthwash for cats that you can add to their water to help keep their gums healthy.

Dishes: Use glass or ceramic or metal and clean them daily.  Plastic tends to collect bacteria from the oils in the cat food and can lead to chin acne.  Disposable paper plates may also be used.

Hairballs: There are several hairball cat food formulas on the market that have extra fiber to help in ridding cats of hairballs - such as Eukanuba brand.  You can add also fiber to their foods or you can offer a product like Petromalt which is a brown sticky paste.  Recommended dosage is once a week, approximately one inch given orally.  Many cats will lick it directly from the tube.  A dry hacking, gagging cough is usually a hairball.  If your cat is coughing, give it Petromalt daily until the hairball is expelled.

Treats:  We use the Gimpet line of cat treats - Topini, Katcheeze and Cherishes.  Many are vitamin fortified and cheese or meat flavored.  They can be purchased at most major pet supply stores.

Maine Coons enjoy playing with their food and especially with their water.  We recommend using heavy water bowls and putting trays under the water bowls to prevent floods.  Keep the food bowl at least 12 inches from the water bowl.  Do not keep the litter pan anywhere near the food and water containers.  Would you want to eat in your bathroom?  Cats don't either.

INTRODUCING YOUR NEW CAT OR KITTEN TO ITS NEW HOME
Your baby may be frightened, insecure, confused or anxious about the changes in environment it is experiencing.  It is leaving its safe haven, its mother and its siblings for a new home and possibly new friends.  To minimize the stress and to best help your baby acclimate to its new home, Step one would be when you get your kitten home, put it in a quiet room by itself with food, litter and water.  Your bedroom may not be the best choice if it will cause problems with your other cats (i.e. they may feel excluded).  Let your kitten explore this room completely so it can ascertain that there are no dangers and it can start to relax.  When you feel the kitten is ready, open the door to this room and permit the kitten to leave at its own volition to start to explore the rest of your home.  The kitten can always run back to its new safe haven if something alarms him or her.  It is best to give your other pets some time to get used to the idea of a new cat in the house.

Scents - cats have very powerful olfactory senses.  It would be very helpful if you can bring a towel that your other pets have been on inside the carrier for your kitten so the kitten can both add the scents of your other pets onto their fur as well as get used to the smells of your pets in advance of meeting them.  Also, take a towel or cat bed that the kitten has been on and bring it out so that your other pets can get an advance preview "smell" in order to recognize the new kitten.  Another help tip - put a small drop of scent (aromatherapy oil, perfume) on the shoulder blades of all of your pets; this is one area in which the pets cannot lick or groom so they will all have a common scent on them.  Remember those sensitive noses; don't overdo it.

Go slowly - it is important for the kitten to rebuild their confidence as well as to give your other pets time to get to know the newcomer.  Many times, it is the older pets who have a harder time adjusting to the change and the kitten will be-bop around the house, oblivous to the older cats distress.  Be sure to give your other pets lots of attention and it does not hurt to address the newcomer as the friend of your other cat; i.e. Buddy's new pal or Minx's little sister.

Got a really peeved cat (i.e. What were you thinking - to bring this cute bundle of fur to upstage me!!)?  Here is another option to help the newcomer get to know your other cat(s).  Put the kitten in a secure carrier and put him in the middle of the living room.  The other cats can see, hear and smell the kitten without the kitten wandering too close and getting a warning from the established cats.  Later - alternate this system if you only have one cat and let the kitten wander around so the other cat can see him but not be able to feel too threatened.  Then go back to step one above.

Your other pets may not want to share their litter pans and food at first.  Be prepared with extra supplies and to put them in different areas of your home to prevent accidents from occuring.  Make sure the cats all have access to litter and food/water.  Some cats will stalk the babies or bar them from the litter pans so be sure that you observe everyone closely and make sure the new kitten is not as risk before leaving them all alone together.

STRESS
Sometimes new cats or kittens may not appear to eat or drink for several days.  Don't worry - they will eat when they feel relaxed.  Stress may also cause some temporary illness such as dry or wet sneezing, watery eyes or a slight fever.  As long as the eyes are clear and the nasal discharge is clear, then the kitten will recover quickly as they ad just to a new environment (dust, allergies) but any green discharge should be investigated by a licensed veterinarian.  Changes in water may also cause diarrhea (from stress too) so it is best to use bottled water and use the food we use to minimize temporary digestive problems.  The kitten may cry for no reason - suddenly missing its littermates and feeling alone.  Comfort the kitten - this will pass.  Kittens are amazingly resilient and they have been raised with love and care that we expect you to continue.  :-)

LITTER
We suggest you use the jumbo sized litter pans to accomodate the long length of the Maine Coon body.  Hooded pans are fine, but if the cats end up missing the edge of the pan (i.e. their rear end is sticking out of the end of the pan by the entrance), then you should remove the hood.  Put litter pans in a quiet and well ventilated place.  We use Feline Pine compressed pine pellet litter (the best!!) and Johny Cat clay litter and have used the World's Best Litter  (flushable, compostable) but you are welcome to use whatever litter suits your cat's preferences and your lifestyle (clay, clumping, etc.).&n bsp; Scoop the litter 1-2x daily, dispose of litter appropriately and clean/disinfect your litterpans regularly.  Keep extra litterpans as needed.  Clumping litter is not always safe for young kittens (they tend to eat everything!) as they have a cement additive so we recommend waiting until kittens are four months of age prior to introducing them to clumping litter.

EMERGENCIES
Stock extra pans, litter, food and bottled water in a location with your own personal supplies in case of emergencies such as earthquakes or floods.  Keep at least one carrier per pet.  A quick evacuation tool could be a zippered pillowcase if your carriers are inaccessable.  Keep your cat up to date with vaccinations and keep your pet's nails trimmed regularly.

GROOMING
COMBING - Comb your cat weekly using a wide tooth (coarse) comb, then progress to a tighter (fine) tooth comb.  Do not use slicker brushes on Maine Coons, they do nothing more than move the top layer of fur around.  Be gentle and groom the cat in a position that is comfortable for you both.  Start with the britches and tummy and progress to the back and chest which are more pleasurable for the cat.

BATHING - see my show grooming article for good tips.  A regular cat bath will involve fewer steps but a degreaser and a good cleansing shampoo are vital.  My basic (i.e. not a show bath) shampoo routine includes Goop (mechanics hand cleaner), Ivory dishwashing liquid soad and a medicated shampoo like Mycodex (buy from your vet).  Use Woolite in the water to help get the coat sopping wet.  Rinsing well is vital; a sticky coat will look worse than when you started and will attract dirt.

DRYING - Towel dry the cat well after the bath.  Warm some thick, absorbant towels in the dryer prior to the bath and wrap your semi-dry cat in these towels to absorb the excess water.  Change the towels as needed and comb out the cat lightly as it is drying.  Make sure it has a warm or sunny place to finish its grooming itself.  Expect to be treated with disdain for several hours but the cat will forgive you.  :-)  Now you have a fresh smelling, lovely kitty to enjoy.  Bathing will also help reduce the amount of hair that is shedding and is vital during their molting seasons (Spring and Fall).  Greasy coats and shedding can lead to horrific mats so it is important to keep up with their grooming.

NAILS - Trim the nails weekly to semi-monthly.  Use small cat claw sisscors and holding the cat in a stable position, press on the pads of the foot to extend the claw.  Clip the translucent tip of the claw.  The opaque portion should not be cut or your cat's claw will bleed - i.e. this will hurt and cause a negative reaction.  Clipping claws should never hurt and if done properly, the cat will not mind.  There are five claws on the front paws and four on the rear.

EARS - use a washcloth or thick kleenex and wrap it around your finger to swab out the ear.  Do not use q-tips or put any liquids in the ears unless directed by a vet.  Wipe away brown wax but report any heavy buildup or black dots to your vet.  Do not get water in their ears when bathing - do not submerge their heads at all!

TEETH - check your cats teeth and gums frequently for signs of gum disease (gingivitus or stomatitus), tooth disease, tartar or teething.  Very bad breath is not normal - your cat have have a problem.  Juvenile gingivitus may be seen when the cats are 7 months-11 months old and occurs when the adult teeth are in and in unaltered cats, when their hormones start to kick in.  This usually clears up by 1-1.5 years of age and can be helped with treatments of clindamycin (antirobe aquadrops).  Discuss brushing your cats teeth with your vet.  Starting this as a kitten makes it easier to do as a habit.

FLEAS - There is no excuse to tolerate fleas.  Use a topical product such as Advantage or Frontline on your cat monthly to kill the fleas and treat your home.  We recommend FLEABUSTERS who can come in and treat your home with non-toxic products and who will guarantee that within 2 months of treatment, your home will be flea free and it will last (if you do not steam clean your carpets) for one year.  Fleas are very detrimental to your cat's health - they can kill a cat through anemia and give cats tapeworm as well as make them miserable.  Do not let fleas invade your home - keep your cats indoors and be alert.

TOYS
When purchasing cat toys, make sure they are cat safe and do not have parts that can be easily removed and swallowed.  Avoid glued on parts and make sure tails, bells, etc. are very secure.  Mylar kitty teases are great, but do not leave them around for the cats to chew on - the metal strings ca n cause intestinal damage if swallowed.  Thread and strings are also very dangerous.  Cats tongues are like scratchy velcro.  Once something like a ribbon is licked, it is nearly impossible for a cat to spit it out.  Ribbons can get stuck in their stomachs or cause an intestinal blockage and require surgery to remove.  Your cats are like toddlers - keep dangerous items out of their reach (and their reach is incredible) and keep them safe.

Expensive toys are not necessary - cats love cardboard boxes, paper bags (handles must be cut), tinfoil balls (large, tightly compacted), pingpong balls, etc.  Cat tracks and turbo scratchers are great.  Catnip toys are wonderful.  Pipecleaner toys (bugs) make great fetching toys. Cat Faeries offers fantastic cat toys and divine catnip extract mist.

Catnip - Most cats love it.  The best quality you can buy is from Alaskan CloudBusters in the Matanuska Valley of Alaska.  It is incredibly potent!

FURNITURE
Cats love cat trees.  They love to be up high as it gives th em both a great view as well as a sense of security.  Cats try to defy gravity all the time and we get to enjoy it when gravity wins.  :-)  A cat tree at least four feet tall is a necessity for cats.  They need something tall and sturdy so that they can scratch.  Scratching allows cats to have a mini-workout.  They work their upper bodies, they work their lower bodies, their back, their abdomens.... well, ok - you get it!  They flex, they crunch - they need a good workout and a cat tree with a sisal post works great.  Give them a piece of furniture they can call their own and they will spend less time on yours.

DECLAWING
Declawing is also not an option for one of our kittens.  Please check out this site for more details on declawing, the actual proceedure, more information on good ways to trim a cat's nails, build a great cat tree from scratch and understand why cats scratch so you understand  their needs and how important keeping their claws is to their overall health and well being.

KEEPING A CAT INDOORS
Cats are perfectly happy to live indoors if you provide them with affection, attention, a scratching post or cat tree, toys and quality food and fresh water.  They've never been outdoors and don't miss what they don't know and they will never miss the following:

• Being hit by a car
• Being attacked or killed by dogs
• Being attacked or killed by coyotes, raccoons, great horned owls or other carnivores
• Injuries from other outdoor cats or diseases such as FIV or FeLV
• Coming into contact with toxins or poisons (antifreeze, snail bait, rat poison)
• Dealing with poisonous insects or snakes
• Dealing with bees, wasps or hornets
• Injuries or diseases from eating birds (splintered bones, toxoplasmosis)
• Injury from a sadistic or cat-hating neighbor
• Being stolen - Maine Coons are beautiful and affectionate and theft is not uncommon!

HARNESSES
Many of our pet buyers have had success training their Maine Coons to walk around on leashes and harnesses.  Go for it - we do not have the patience; our sessions turn into dragging the cat around for a few feet.  Who says cats aren't smart???  Several of our cats spend time on boats and are harness trained and have their own life preservers while others go out in RVs and on vacations with their owners.  Make sure your cats are microchipped for their protection if you take your cats outside of your homes or outside fully enclosed runs (this is not the same as unsupervised time in unfenced or non-fully enclosed yards (front or back) which we oppose) and keep their rabies vaccinations up to date just in case.

PRECAUTIONS
Many products and situations are hazardous to your cats.  Pine based cleaners are toxic.  Keep toilet lids down and do not use tank cleaners if your cat ever drinks from the toilet (I know, groan, but some do!).  Treat your cat like a curious child and look for hazards.  Cover electrical outlets, protect them from dangling blind cords or electrical cords, firescreen off your fireplace, be careful with recliners, hideabeds, rocking chairs, slamm ing doors.  Be careful with beds (box springs, dangling threats), needles and thread, plastic bags, shopping bags, tape and sticky tags, cigarettes, styrofoam, packing peanuts, yarn, cellophane, open refigerators, dryers, garbage cans, sharp tin can lids, chicken bones.  Be observant and try to deal with hazards before your cat finds them.

POISONOUS PLANTS
Visit these web sites for lists of plants to avoid:

Cornell list of poisonous plans
Cornell Resources on poisonous plants
CFA's list of plants

HEALTH AND FIRST AID
Basic info:  A cat's average temperature should range from 100.4 to 102.5 degrees farenheit.  Kittens can be slightly warmer.  A temperature of 104 degrees is cause for alarm and an immediate vet visit.  Measure temperatures with a rectal thermometer or an ear thermometer.

Pulse should be 110-130 beats per minute.

Respiration should be 20-30 breaths per minute.

Keep your vet's phone number handy as well as locate an emergency or after hours vet nearby if your regular vet is closed.  Emergencies seem to always happen at night or on weekends.  :-(

READING MATERIAL

We recommend the following books as resources:

The Book of the Cat - by Summit Books (out of print, good luck hunting!)

That Yankee Cat : The Maine Coon by Marilis Hornidge.

Maine Coon Cats : Everything About Purchase, Care, Nutrition, Reproduction, Diseases, and Behavior (A Complete Pet Owner's Manual).

Guide to Owning a Maine Coon Cat

Legacy of the Cat by Gloria Stephens or her newly revised edition of the same book!

Catwatching by Desmond Morris.

The Cornell Book of Cats Villard Books

A-Z of Cat Diseases & Health Problems.

Caring for Your Older Cat.

Cat Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook.

Robinson's Genetics for Cat Breeders and Veterinarians.

Breeding Purebred Cats

RESOURCES
There are many resources and web sites devoted to cats.  Have fun searching and reading on the internet.
A good place to start for information on cats and their care is the Cat Fanciers web site.
Another great site for Maine Coon specific information is Maine Coon Breeders and Fanciers Association (MCBFA).